Havana: A Complete Guide to the City of Columns

*A taxi near the Capitolio - once home to the Pre-Revolution Cuban Congress (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

July 16 • By Andrew Langford

Just 90 miles from the Florida Keys, Cuba is both one of the closest and most distant countries from the United States. Amidst a serious economic and societal crisis, the island finds itself looking to curious tourists as a lifeline.

Getting to Cuba is usually the easy part. With most flights departing from Florida, you might not even have time to order a drink before the crew readies for the final descent into Havana or Veradero. In a matter of minutes, the coastline comes into view before giving way to abundant green fields of sugarcane pocketed with concrete housing blocks and rusted industrial sites. None of Cuba’s airports are very large, so expect to flow through customs and quickly find yourself on the curb.

Walking outside the terminal, Cuba hits you fast. Families jockey to move supplies brought back by relatives from the States, while the air is heavy with the smell of pre-catalytic converter car exhaust. Sparkling in the humid sun is a collection of candy colored pre-Revolution American automobiles and pint-sized, dull Soviet Ladas. You are unmistakably in Cuba.

For many visitors, Havana IS Cuba. The rest of the island - where the majority of Cubans live - may have some things to say about that, but the allure of the capital is unmistakable. Long associated with hedonistic memories and a recent reappraisal as a seductive living ruin, you’ve probably carried some image of Havana for years already. It certainly is one of the world’s more unique cities, but it is still a real city where nostalgia and Hollywood depictions clash with the reality of day-to-day life in a very poor country.

Accommodations

*Living room of a three bedroom apartment in Miramar taken during the daily power cuts (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

When figuring out where to stay in Havana and for how long, it’s probably best to divide it into three distinct areas with radically different experiences. East of the port is Old Havana, “Habana Vieja,” probably the most touristy part of the city with colorful ancient colonial buildings stretching from the cruise terminal to major landmarks like the Capitolio, Gran Teatro, and the Museum of the Revolution. West of Old Havana is Centro Habana, a general term for a large area encompassing one of the city’s major residential areas. This part is more rundown than its eastern neighbor, but it’s still home to many cultural amenities and the large resort towers built prior to the Revolution. Lastly, there’s Miramar - the Beverly Hills of Cuba - which is practically its own separate city. East of the Rio Almendares, this area is where many of the government elites and foreign embassies can be found. Most of the housing tends to be mansions built in the first half of the 20th century, making this the best area for groups looking to rent a large house or just have more space.

For those able to stay at hotels, most of these properties will either be in Old Havana or Centro. Accommodations in Old Havana range from the smaller boutique hotels to the nicest properties in the city - particularly those under the Iberostar brand. Centro has some of the most famous properties in the country, including the Habana Libre (formerly the Habana Hilton) and the Hotel Nacional - yes, that same one of Godfather fame - but online reviews report that both structures are in extreme disrepair and overpriced.

For the Airbnb crowd, accommodations can be found in each of the three major areas, with the largest concentration in Old Havana and Miramar. Again, if you’re traveling in a group or want a more luxurious, spacious property, Miramar is your best bet, but to be close to the nightlife and have that classic old room with a balcony peering over the colonial center, Old Havana takes the crown. One bedroom rooms are around $50/night, while whole apartments or houses will cost approximately $100/night, but can go up to $200 or $300/night.

Activities

*Sunrise street life on a residential block in Habana Vieja (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

There’s no shortage of things to do in the big city. Around Parque Central, there are a number of major cultural sites including the Capitolio, Gran Teatro, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, and the Museum of the Revolution in the old Presidential Palace. Admission is only a few dollars for each of these sites, but hours can be infrequent and most were shut as of late 2022. Still, just walking around them and viewing their architecture from the outside is worth setting aside some time.

And walking is a big part of the Havana experience. With so many locals taking to their doorsteps to socialize or fish alongside the famous Malecón, this is the best way to peak into the daily lives of local residents. If you’d like a more structured walk around the city, Free Walking Tour Havana does daily trips from the Plaza del Angel at 9:30 am and 4 pm. These tours are done in both English and Spanish and operate independent of the government, so you can politely engage your guide on their honest assessment of the state. Just remember to tip at the end.

History buffs will want to leave the immediate city center and check some of the coastal fortifications like the Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the Plaza de la Revolución and the Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón. Most of these sites can be accessed in a single trip by renting one of the many classic convertibles seen driving around the city. This is also a nice way to see some of the city’s lesser known attractions like the Chinatown gates and the banyan-filled Bosque de la Habana. Car tours may require some haggling, but will typically run between $45 and $60 per hour.

*Riding an ancient convertible near Havana’s Chinatown (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

Lastly, like most Caribbean cities, Havana is known for its tourist shops. Old Havana is filled with shops selling dominos and assorted merchandise with the Cuban flag or various Communist icons. This is also the area where the nicest state-run cigar and rum shops can be found, although cheaper options for Cohibas and Havana Club exist almost anywhere else in the country. But what makes shopping in Havana unique is the sheer amount of pre-Revolution antiques found throughout the capital. Memorias Librería is a great store for a curated selection of old American merchandise, Revolutionary texts, and old Cuban records. Those with a good understanding of Spanish and ample time should feel free to explore other areas of the city for some truly hidden finds. Havana is famous for people finding items as extreme as ancient Mercedes sports cars in nondescript buildings.

Dining

Food in Havana is going to be the best in the country short of having relatives in Cuba who can cook fresh caught lobster or roast a whole pig. The sheer number of visitors means both a handful of state-run restaurants, generally to be avoided at all costs, and family institutions called paladares that can be as casual as someone’s living room and as formal as a multi-story fine-dining experience. Here are some highlights worth hitting in Havana:

Otramanera

*Truffle roasted quail eggs with Spanish rib croquettes (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

How do you support fine-dining in a Communist country? It’s not easy, but this project from Amy Torralbas and Álvaro Diez Fernandez is certainly the nicest restaurant in the country. Located in Miramar, it looks like many trendy Western restaurants - a rarity in Cuba - and features unique touches like an amuse-bouche and comparatively extensive wine list. Some of the flavors may not live up to their beautiful plating, but this endeavor is worth supporting, a unique dining experience in Cuba, and inexpensive by international standards - entrees are only about $7-$10.

El Cocinero

The flagship restaurant at Fábrica de Arte Cubano (more on that below) is another of the country’s high-end restaurant options. The food can be roughly identified as Latin American cuisine, though menus have been known to have a few stir-fry and waffle riffs. Here the best bet is to stick with the seafood plates, such as their ceviche and octopus. Being part of the FAC, the ambiance is nice and actually captures the rustic-chic look that is often too liberally applied to Havana. Expect to pay about $10-15 for plates.

Jíbaro

Another rustic-chic spot in Old Havana, Jíbaro is often absent from restaurant guides despite some serious credentials. The menu balances Cuban classics like ropa vieja and croquetas with Latin American plates like ceviche and the occasional pan-Asian dish. Owner Diana Figueroa also makes the drinks an essential part of any visit, serving up perhaps the best mojito in Cuba. In fact, learning this recipe was an official part of King Charles III’s visit to Cuba in 2019.

Dinner entrees at Jíbaro are $5-$10.

El Dandy

While it’s known as one of Old Havana’s best coffee shops, El Dandy is much more than a stop for some morning fuel. Featuring a Mexican-inspired menu, El Dandy serves some of the best tacos in the city as well as other Mexican staples like quesadillas and guacamole. It’s hardly the best Mexican food you’ll ever eat, but the ingredients are fresh and sometimes you just need that fix, especially after going a week eating a handful of Cuban dishes. Its strong selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages also make it a great stop to escape the heat during long days walking around the Old City.

Dishes at El Dandy cost around $5.

La Guarida

No list would be complete without La Guarida - the most famous restaurant in the country. One of Cuba’s first paladares, La Guardia has grown to control an entire building in Centro since first opening in 1996. Featured in a number of Cuban films, this is the go-to spot for visiting heads of state and major international celebrities ranging from Jack Nicholson to Jay-Z and Beyoncé. But more than being a buzzy, photogenic space, the food may be the very best in the country. Sticking to traditional Cuban cuisine, the lechon asado and ropa vieja are both great choices. Given its fame, this is one of the few places on the island where reservations are strongly recommended and dinners run about $25 to $30 per person.

Drinks & Nightlife

*A mojito at La Guarida (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

Cuba punchers well above its weight in international cultural recognition, but perhaps no export from Cuban culture is as well known as their adult beverages. Any country that gave the world the frozen daiquiri, Cuba libre, and mojito is worth visiting for those drinks alone. The rebounding nightlife has suffered a bit of a setback since COVID, but you’ll still find a party if you know where to look.

The Classics

Many tourists will feel obligated to hit the most-famous drinking holes associated with the development of Cuba’s cocktails and more than a few stories from Hemingway. The most deserving of these spots is La Floridita - “the cradle of the daiquiri.” Convenient for visitors in Old Havana, you’ll find a shrine to its most famous literary guest and photos from his one known encounter with Fidel after a fishing tournament. Within walking distance is Sloppy Joe’s, the progenitor of the Key West institution and the elementary school lunchroom sandwich that share its name. It was reopened in 2007 after a meticulous restoration to its original appearance, but it loses appeal with its prices and sparsely populated bar catering exclusively to tourists. Lastly, there’s the bar at the Hotel Nacional. This in theory offers a great opportunity to see the common spaces of the hotel’s historic common areas and a chance to grab the “original” mojito, but the hotel’s status as a state-run enterprise means this bar is off limits to Americans.

Fábrica de Arte Cubano

*Fashion show between drinks and DJ sets at FAC (Photo Credit: Noah Adams)*

If the classics trade off a century of Cuban drinking lore, Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) bundles all of Cuba’s hopes for fresh cultural relevance into one space. Set in a massive former cooking oil factory, FAC wears many hats. From the first floor up, it’s an art gallery with revolving local exhibits and pop-up jazz concerts. In the back, it’s a club blasting house music from visiting international DJs. On the second floor, it’s an event space hosting fashion shows with an attached outdoor bar. You get the point - FAC is the best play in Havana to dance and drink the night away alongside mostly international visitors and some of the country’s most well-heeled citizens.

Casa de la Música

This local chain of music venues offers the best of Cuba’s music scene - ranging from jazz to electroacoustic. Their best venue is the location in Miramar, near Otramanera and roughly within walking distance of FAC, but the best crowds will be found closer to Centro Habana.

Old Havana Bars

*Looking down on the bar at Jíbaro (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

Outside of the most touristy classics, Old Havana offers a few choices for great drinks where you may even encounter a local resident. First, there’s the aforementioned Jíbaro. The bar here is relatively small and usually manned by a lone bartender, but the mojito may just be the best you’ll drink in Cuba and the intimate setting means you can usually have a few minutes to learn precisely how their drinks are made. For a buzzier option, check out El del Frente, the sister bar of the well-known O’Reilly 304 pub. This spot has a nice rooftop, sometimes jarring classic rock, and, most importantly, a comparatively abundant mix of locals.