Unsanctioned Travel: Visiting Cuba as an American in 2023

*Centro Habana viewed from Malecón in August 2022 (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

July 14 • By Andrew Langford

Few countries capture the American imagination quite like Cuba. A forbidden land of rum, cigars, and visions of late, sweaty nights, its cultural hold has only grown since being shut off to American visitors at the height of the Cold War. Whether its passing visions of The Godfather Part II, intrigue over that bearded man in military fatigues chomping on a cigar, or a midlife crisis resolved with a deep dive into all things Hemingway, Americans found plenty of reason to return when tourism resumed in the mid-2010s. But this seems to have been a brief lull in an otherwise hostile modern relationship, and for many US tourists, the opportunity to visit ended with the Trump administration.

Yet even in 2023 - after a whole host of global events impacted travel to the island - it’s still relatively easy for Americans and many other Western travelers to visit Cuba. As you’ll see below, the only question is if you really want to visit Cuba in its present state. But if you still decide that this is your destination, here are some tips for how to best maximize your itinerary.

A Nation in Crisis

*Mothballed Cubana aircraft at José Martí International Airport, some of the lesser victims of Cuba’s ongoing fuel and supplies crisis (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

Why should you think twice about travel to Cuba? Simply read the news cycle related to events on the island post-2020. After the US doubled down on its sanctions and cut off cruise travel and access to resort accommodations during the Trump administration, the island entered a tail-spin when the Covid-19 pandemic virtually stopped all international travel. Add decades of economic mismanagement and the elimination of most oil shipments from Venezuela and Russia and you have a crisis which nearly every Cuban will tell you has made the past few years the worst of their lives. As a new exodus of Cubans tries to reach the US in record numbers, residents wait days in line for basic rations like bread and petrol, and hospitals run without basic medical supplies like bandages and ibuprofen, it is unquestionably the Cuban public - and not tourists on holiday - that have it the worst.

But when a country is this deep in crisis, it will undoubtedly affect tourists. Most restaurants and bars remain open, given the vital importance of foreign currency to the Cuban economy, but expect to find shortened menus and businesses abruptly closed due to sudden emigration from the owners. These disruptions and increased wait times for transportation due to the fuel shortages are basic hassle factors that pale in comparison to the daily struggle faced by the Cuban public, but they are still things to consider. Yet, the most visible issue for tourists remains the power outages. Given the restrictions on diesel imports and the long-term collapse of the Cuban power grid, highlighted by the explosion of one of the country’s primary oil depots last year, Havana is faced with about four hours of scheduled power cuts four days each week, while the rest of the country has daily outages which can last for the entire day. In a tropical climate - think Florida in the summer - the lack of power and all the luxuries that come with it quickly become apparent.

Lastly, there is the moral quandary of visiting a country in this condition and consuming resources that most of the country can only dream of accessing. An argument can be made for how in an economy so reliant on tourism - which has been decimated by a lack of visitors - that continuing to visit and being generous with hosts creates a net-good, but it’s likely an issue to consider before booking.

And that all goes to say that there are still plenty of reasons to visit. Locals are very friendly, crime is not an issue, and it is very affordable for most visitors. No country lacks redeeming qualities. But more than most places - even countries often unfairly written off, like Mexico or Brazil - there are issues which will affect the enjoyment of one’s vacation here. This is not written from an ignorant American, blindly anti-Cuban slant; encounter other tourists in Cuba - Australian, Italian, and Latin American - and they’ll have the same observation.

How to Visit as an American in 2023

As previously stated, visiting Cuba is still relatively easy for Americans. Yes, cruises have been halted for several years now and some visa categories most directly associated with tourism have been eliminated. There’s been little indication that this will change under the Biden administration, aside from authorizing airlines to fly additional routes to the island.

What all of this means is visitors primarily have to pivot to putting “Support for the Cuban People” on all travel documents. This is what will be required during your initial airline booking, but most actual visa work identifying this category will come later.

Credit Cards & Currency

Airfare and Airbnbs - the primary accommodation option for visiting Americans - can both be booked with credit cards. However, active sanctions remain on use of credit cards and Western Union money transfers in Cuba, so all purchases made during your time in Cuba will require cash. Since 2020, the country has operated with two exchange rates - the official, which has been reluctantly raised but still far overvalues the Cuban peso’s value - and the black market rate. This rate, which is about 215 CUP to 1 USD as of mid-July can be tracked daily on El Toque, a site most Cubans use to set daily prices. People will approach you on the street to exchange money and rates can be negotiated for around this value. To avoid money scams, it’s best to organize these exchanges with an Airbnb host or reputable small-business owner. Beyond saving a great deal of money this way, it also helps highly desired foreign currency to flow directly to the Cuban people rather than the government.

Also, be sure to only exchange the money you will need for incidental purchases over just a few days of your trip. Most major purchases, such as tours or transportation between cities, will only be done in US dollars. Even local bars and restaurants will often offer a discount for purchases made in USD over CUP, so bear that in mind when exchanging money. Once you’ve acquired Cuban pesos, there’s no exchanging them back.

Another consideration before travel is what activities and businesses are sanctioned. Some tour operators are included in the latest sanctions, which can be found on the Department of State’s website, and the import of cigars and rum to the US is strictly forbidden. Also as of 2020, all hotels on the island are shut to Americans under late Trump-era sanctions. This means the only option for Americans are homestays at Casa Particulars. While some might have grievances over this, these accommodations often facilitate the best interactions with Cubans, include a range of options ensuring privacy, are significantly cheaper - and often nicer - than state-run resorts, and provide real financial support for locals.

*The colectivo “station” under an overpass near Havana (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)*

Ground transportation between cities is not affected by US sanctions, but should be planned in the days before your arrival. The bus services which were once popular with tourists are now almost entirely reserved for locals and not worth the hassle of repeat visits to the bus station to find times and beg for a ticket. Instead, the best way to now get around the island is to either hire a private driver or arrange a “colectivo” shared taxi with your Airbnb hosts. This network, now focused on serving foreign tourists, is the most economical way to travel around the island, but it comes with some drawbacks. Vehicles tend to be the smaller Soviet automobiles rather than the classic American cars most associated with the country, and every seat will be filled. AC and vehicle reliability will not be guaranteed with either of these transportation options, but your odds are better with a private driver.

Additionally, Cuba has probably the weirdest cellular and internet network you will ever encounter. With harsh state restrictions on access to the internet, public Wi-Fi spots only began to appear in 2015 and 3G access to internet on a cell phone was only first allowed in December of 2018. To log on to nearly any form of the internet, even if there’s a Wi-Fi router in your host’s home or a restaurant, you’ll need a scratch-off card with hourly access sold at any of the government’s ETECSA telecom offices. Cubans love even the little slice of internet access they’re able to receive, so lines at ETECSA offices in major cities can take several hours to move through. A heavily censored internet also means you will need a VPN to reach most websites, although WhatsApp is permitted and is the most popular communication platform amongst Cubans.

Finally, when planning your trip be sure to draft an itinerary of your travel and keep receipts whenever possible. It is unlikely that you will ever be asked, but the Treasury Department can request proof of compliance with US sanctions several years after your return.

Packing & the Tourist Visa

Cuba is big suitcase kind of trip. Beyond the fact that you will probably want to visit for more than a few days, resource limitations on the island mean that you need to treat it almost like a backcountry camping trek - what you bring with you is all that you’re guaranteed to have. Whether that is breathable clothing for the humid weather, all of the US dollars you will need for your visit, shampoo, or bandages, be sure to pack it. It’s also worth being kind and bringing things for your hosts. This is not necessarily expected when booking an Airbnb, but any extra articles of clothing and OTC drugs are greatly appreciated.

When it comes time for your departure, you’ll also need to have obtained a Tourist Visa to enter the country. This can be acquired from the Cuban Embassy in DC, through several online services, or at many airports next to the check-in counter. In Fort Lauderdale, for example, travelers can stop by the desk, buy the visa in a matter of minutes, then step over to the adjoining Southwest counter. Verify with your departing airport that this is possible before your date of departure. Also, if you are returning to Cuba as a US citizen originally born on the island, Cuban customs will require you to show a Cuban passport to enter the country.

Unsanctioned Travel: Visiting Cuba as an American in 2023

A Nation in Crisis

How to Visit as an American in 2023

Credit Cards & Currency

Packing & the Tourist Visa

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