The Other Cuba: Visiting Trinidad and Viñales
Karst peaks rise behind a farm in Viñales, Cuba (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)
July 15 • By Andrew Langford
Just 90 miles from the Florida Keys, Cuba is both one of the closest and most distant countries from the United States. Amidst a serious economic and societal crisis, the island finds itself looking to curious tourists as a lifeline.
Getting to Cuba is usually the easy part. With most flights departing from Florida, you might not even have time to order a drink before the crew readies for the final descent into Havana or Veradero. In a matter of minutes, the coastline comes into view before giving way to abundant green fields of sugarcane pocketed with concrete housing blocks and rusted industrial sites. None of Cuba’s airports are very large, so expect to flow through customs and quickly find yourself on the curb.
Walking outside the terminal, Cuba hits you fast. Families jockey to move supplies brought back by relatives from the States, while the air is heavy with the smell of pre-catalytic converter car exhaust. Sparkling in the humid sun is a collection of candy colored pre-Revolution American automobiles and pint-sized, dull Soviet Ladas. You are unmistakably in Cuba.
Most tourists stick to the western half of the island, with many never stepping foot outside Havana or the Veradero resort zone. Still, there are four main destinations which every visitor should consider.
On the northern coast are Cuba’s most famous beaches. Sure, there’s Veradero with it’s postcard turquoise waters and comparatively well-developed tourist industry, but the best beaches are found at Los Cayos - a collection of cays off the central part of the country. Unfortunately for Americans, the handful of accommodations here tend to be resorts with state interests, so this might not be an option at present.
This means the ideal week-long itinerary that any nationality can use has three stops: Havana, Viñales, and Trinidad.
We’ve already covered Havana at length in a separate entry, which is why this article will cover the karst mountains and colonial streets that make Viñales and Trinidad worth visiting.
Viñales
Terrace farming near Finca Agroecológica El Paraiso in Viñales (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)
The sleeper highlight for many visitors to Cuba is Valle de Viñales (Viñales Valley), a karst landscape two hours from Havana. It may be in the Caribbean and less than 200 miles from Key West, but it feels a lot closer to southeast Asia. In fact, the only other mogote formations like these are all found in Asia.
Home to a temperate climate perfect for the country’s tobacco industry and various outdoor recreation activities, Viñales is particularly popular with European tourists - some even choose it over time in Havana. It is possible to do it as a long day trip from the capital, but it’s better to plan a few nights here. With cooler weather than most of the country and an abundance of laid-back outdoor activities, Viñales is a relaxing detour from the nightlife in Havana or sweaty days by the beach.
Transportation
The best way to reach Viñales is to hire either a private driver or arrange a “colectivo” shared taxi with your Airbnb hosts. This network, operating to now serve foreign tourists is the most economical way to travel around the island, but it comes with some drawbacks. Vehicles tend to be the smaller Soviet automobiles, rather than the classic American cars that most associate with the country, and every seat will be filled. AC and vehicle reliability will not be guaranteed with any car in Cuba, but your odds are better with a private driver.
Accomodations
Once in Viñales, there are an abundance of Casa Particular homestays to choose from. Even for Europeans and Canadians, there are only a couple of hotels in the area, so this is how most people experience the valley. Walking along the streets of the town of Viñales, you’ll find that many of the homes have some sort of spare room set aside for tourists and the main drag has the most foreigners you’ll see outside of the resort zones like Veradero.
Activities
Sunrise over the valley (Photo Credit: Noah Adams)
Filling the valley floor below the immense white bluffs is Cuba’s most productive agricultural region, cultivating the finest tobacco in the country - and maybe world - including the prized leafs used for Castro’s Cohibas. Most day trips will involve some interaction with this industry, whether it is on horseback or driving between plantations. Once at your destination, you’re ushered past fields of tobacco and into the old thatch structures used to dry the grown leaves before most are sent to government factories - emphasis on most. To help appease the farmers, the government gives them a share to consume however they please. In the lucrative tourism industry, that means rolling them in front of visitors before offering them for sale. It’s a cultural activity with centuries of history that plays a big part in both the valley’s UNESCO protections and what makes a visit to Cuba unique.
The thing about tobacco plantations is once you’ve seen one, you have a pretty clear idea of how they all function. Rather than spend a day focused on cigars, a more well-rounded trek around Viñales involves hiring a guide to show you around on horseback. This will incorporate a ride through many of the other farms situated in the valley, as well as swimming holes and caves. For a 3-4 hour trip, expect to pay $25-$30 per person.
Still, the hands-down highlight of Viñales is catching either sunrise or sunset over the karstic depression. Sunrise requires the most effort, but definitely has the best payoff. Through your host, you can easily arrange local transportation and a guide to take you up one of the mountains. Depending on the time of the year, you’ll have to leave your accommodation between 4 and 5 am. After a short drive, you’ll hike across farmland and jungle terrain, before beginning a moderate climb to the valley’s highest villages. About an hour later, you’ll reach one of the houses, where coffee and tea can be enjoyed just as the sky lights up around the valley. It’s truly a memorable experience.
Dining
After a long search, a solitary Cuban sandwich was found at El Olivo (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)
Viñales, like a majority of the country, is not exactly a strong dining destination. El Olivo serves some of the finest Cuban plates in town and may be the only restaurant in the country where you’ll find some version the “Cuban sandwich” that people are familiar with off the island. For the best views, visitors often go to the Balcón del Valle or Finca Agroecológica El Paraiso. The farm setting at Finca makes it a more unique destination than Balcón, but you’re paying more for the view and ambiance than the quality of the food at this prix fixe spot.
Logistics for Transiting Cuba
Beyond the decision to do colectivo versus a private driver, there are a few other items to bear in mind with this itinerary. In total, the travel time between Viñales and Trinidad is about seven hours when including stops - whether that’s at one of the rest areas or due to a short breakdown. Remember to bring US dollars for the ride and to book at least one day in advance with your host.
With the route following Cuba’s A1 and A4, this is a great way to see everyday life along the spine of the country and various roadside anachronisms unique to Cuba.
Trinidad
Plaza Mayor, the center of nightly social life in Trinidad (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)
Near the Caribbean coast in central Cuba lies Trinidad, one of Cuba’s oldest towns and its best preserved colonial center. In fact, Trinidad is so old that this is where Cortés recruited men before the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire. Much like other population centers in the American South and Caribbean, the city would thrive off of the slave trade and adjacent sugar industry in the 18th and 19th centuries, leaving behind a complicated cultural legacy that the area has yet to truly address. But for those looking to just experience the colonial remnants and laid-back culture at face value, Trinidad makes for a relaxing few days.
Accommodations
As one of Cuba’s longstanding “off the beaten path” travel destinations, Trinidad already has a number of hotels. Whether those are concrete properties built to house Eastern Bloc visitors or newer renovated colonial structures, this town has plenty of official accommodations. Still, for American travelers or just those looking to save some money, this town also has plenty of casa particulars. Expect to pay around $45-$60/night for various two-bed arrangements, though individual beds and couches can be found for less than $30/night.
Living room of Casa Nancy, a popular Airbnb near the center of Trinidad (Photo Credit: Noah Adams)
Activities
Trinidad has a variety of activities to fill a few days in the town. With a small, walkable center, the town itself is a good place to get your bearings as you explore cobblestone alleys and peak inside local art galleries. Beyond this, you will need to organize transportation for some of the nearby outdoor activities.
While not technically a coastal town itself, Trinidad is only 20 minutes from Playa Ancón, one of the most popular beaches on Cuba’s Caribbean coast. In the shadow of crumbling Cold War-era resorts, tourists and locals alike enjoy the clear waters and $0.50 drinks from vendors walking down the beach. The sand may not be the Caribbean’s most pristine, but it’s a space with more local flavor than most other beaches in the region. For those trying to hit the water, rafts and catamaran rides are also available at Bar Coco Mama 1830.
Near La Boca, a settlement just a few miles west of Trinidad, visitors can also have a more active experience in the water. Snorkeling and diving excursions can be both arranged through your host or by the waterfront in La Boca.
For slightly drier activities, visitors should look to the Escambray Mountains. Rising behind Trinidad, this range is home to a tropical rain forest making up the Topes de Collantes nature reserve. Both horseback and walking tours are available to see some of the reserve’s falls, natural pools, and coffee plantations. Nearby, visitors often package in a tour of Valle de los Ingenios - Valley of the Sugar Mills - another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The vistas may not be quite as impressive as Viñales, but its historic position as a major sugar producer means the valley is dotted with a unique mix of sugar mill ruins dating back hundreds of years.
Dining & Nightlife
A typical pork dish at San José (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)
The same said for Viñales carries over to Trinidad. The draw of this city is not necessarily the food and drink, but it is better than the options which can be found in Viñales and most other parts of the country.
San José
This is easily the best spot in Trinidad. It’s so good, that Cubans from other parts of the country will say this is THE spot to eat at in Trinidad. It bears many of the interior design elements of a classic tourist trap, but constant AC and a clean dining room can be a welcomed relief during daytime power outages. The food is focused on Cuban classics, with a number of great pork and seafood plates.
Los Conspiradores
One of the most popular spots in Trinidad, Los Conspiradores is all about the ambiance. Situated next to a set of terraces near Plaza Mayor where groups often gather to drink late at night and musicians entertain the crowd, it’s easy to see why the international crowd would flock here. Seafood remains the reigning menu king, but the plates are nothing exceptional.
Restaurante El Criollo
Set on one of the best rooftops in the northeast corner of town, El Criollo follows the international formula for rooftop establishments - most attention is paid to the drinks and vibe. Dishes here tend to focus on more generic Western flavors, like American entrees, but there are a couple of lobster and ceviche plates. Still, the focus of this spot is happy hour or golden hour. Watching the sun set over Trinidad and the Caribbean while listening to live music and drinking a mojito or sangria make this a spot to keep in mind.
La Botija
Another restaurant that Cubans from around the country will mention in Trinidad, La Botija is the definition of style over substance. The live entertainment lights up the space and it may be the busiest restaurant in town. But everything beyond appetizers, like the competently made croquettes, is average at best. The ropa vieja is deeply uninspiring and food safety standards can be dubious. It’s difficult to issue a warning against a restaurant, but consider this a cautionary tale, if your group or host insists on this spot, maybe stick to the drinks and appetizers.
Bar Doña Leonor
A household operation near Plaza Mayor, Doña Leonor exemplifies Cuban homegrown enterprise. As a walk-up window, drinks are limited to Cuban classics like mojitos and Cuba libres. But grab a plastic cup and walk over to enjoy some of the nearby street musicians for a low-key culmination to the night.
Entrance to Disco Ayala, the most unique late night experience in Trinidad (Photo Credit: Noah Adams)
Disco Ayala
This is easily the wildest attraction in town and one Europeans seek out when visiting Cuba. In the foothills above Trinidad, you’ll either climb dirt paths or an aqueduct to reach this underground establishment. Set in a cave where a local serial killer used to dispose of children in the 1800s, its history and inconsistent electricity cast plenty of doubt on the wisdom of even making the trek there. But join the hundreds of Italians and Spaniards in line to pay a few dollars and descend into the cave to collect your comped drink. The ambiance feels like a reggaeton college bar buried underground, but there’s probably not many other places in the world that match this description.
