Ají: Explosive Flavors in Friendly Confines

A selection of the sea, including octopus, sushi, and ceviche at Ají (Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)

August 7 • By Andrew Langford

Far from the notice of most Central Florida diners, the staff at Ají have determinedly been toiling away.  First, they turned a minuscule space on a criminally underrated stretch of South OBT into one of the hardest to nab tables south of the Beachline.  Then they expanded to a drab strip mall in Casselberry where they quickly filled their corner of the parking lot.  And now Ají has added a third location, this time in a gas station on Semoran near Orlando International.  

Looks can be deceiving and Ají’s stealth exteriors have helped it to fly under the radar of even the most in-the-know locals - ask your foodie friend about it and you’ll probably be met with an apoplectic stare.  Yet cram in by the doorway of any of their locations, add your name to the waitlist, and take comfort in the fact that with throngs of Peruvians flocking to any of their locations, you might just be in store for the best Peruvian meal in the area.

The enigma that is Ají carries on with the ambiance in the interior of any of their spaces.  Each is a little different, but you’ll usually have the same mild sensory overload made up of some combination of music, strange LED lights, and tables close to one another.  At their Casselberry location, which is by far their largest and most traditional space in terms of appearance, there’s usually an upbeat party atmosphere.  Show up on a weekend and don’t be surprised if you get roped into singing one or two birthday songs.

This liveliness carries over to the service.  Staff is always friendly and ready to help guide you through the expansive menu, even if by a quick survey of the dining room, most of the patrons are regulars or those with a lifetime’s working knowledge of the ins-and-outs of Peruvian fare.

Starting with the drinks, Ají makes a mean pisco sour.  At $16, the value might not fully be there, but they are delicious and for the foreseeable future, the new South Semoran location is offering a 2-for-1 drink special on pisco sours during an extended happy hour.  Additionally, an expansive liquor menu, some wines, and a variety of beers mean that finding the right drink shouldn’t be too much of a hassle.

As for the main menu, the same rule of abundance applies.  The menu not only approaches a novelistic length, but many of the dishes themselves raise an eyebrow as they arrive at your table.  Whether it’s an expensive ceviche mix arriving in a giant margarita glass or a “sample platter” covered with a small bay’s worth of seafood, Ají favors a maximalist approach with far louder and more complex dishes than what are usually found at a Peruvian restaurant (this also means higher prices, though still at a good value relative to the serving sizes).

If the plating and assortment of ingredients like octopus, swordfish, squid and other sea creatures makes this sound like Alice in Wonderland, then the menu reads like Around the World in 80 Days.  What many Peruvian first timers fail to fully grasp is just how diverse Peruvian cuisine is.  Not only does the country have a variety of climates and unique ingredients native to its soil, but centuries of immigration from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East have made it the sort of melting point that people think of in the same sense as major US cities.  So don’t be too surprised when you see a section of the menu dedicated to sushi or variations of lomo served over a bed of risotto.

While seafood, which is really the star of the show here, is usually considered light, the addition of various sauces, starchy sides, and portions at Ají means this is usually not a light meal.  To get the full experience, be sure to bring lots of friends and maybe even try to save some room for desserts - according to some of the birthday groups, it’s a worthy end to any meal at Ají.

Most locations tend to get busier at a later dinner time (around 8-9pm), while the original Orange Blossom Trail space is usually always crowded.  Expect to pay around $20-30 per dish, which is itself a large sharing portion, while group platters serving 4 people tend to cost around $40-$60.  

It will take many visits for you to begin making progress through the menu, but here are some of the highlights:

Ají Explosión

(Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)

Ají takes their ceviches seriously, even if their plating may be playful.  With roughly a dozen versions to pick from, it can be hard to decide, but the Ají Explosión is a strong option for one of the more complicated variants.  Mixed with a traditional tilapia is avocado, red pepper cream, and two skewers of shrimp and beef tenderloin protruding from the glass.  This kind of showmanship would make most ceviches feel like gimmicks, but the flavors work well together and even the steak and shrimp are perfectly cooked.

Pulpo Anticuchero

(Photo Credit: Andrew Langford)

Octopus can be a very hit-or-miss menu item, but Ají’s is definitely a winner.  Placing three large tentacles over a bed of corn and potatoes, the octopus is fresh and, above all, tender.  If you’re a fan of octopus, this may be your favorite dish on the menu.

Sushis

This is more of a general comment on this portion of the menu.  The sushis have fine fillings, but it’s the sheer amount of dairy that make these less remarkable.  All contain cream cheese and many are drizzled in a rich sauce.  This has the effect of unfortunately muting the flavors of the seafood inside the rolls.  If there was any portion of the menu to glance over, it would be this one.

Lomo Saltado

Whether it’s the lomo saltado or risotto a la huancaina, you can expect tender steak in a flavorful broth.  The difference between these two dishes is the base.  The lomo has the usual fries and rice, while risotto a la huancaina swaps this for a rich, cheesy risotto.  Both are great, but be warned that the risotto is incredibly filling.